There is a perfect storm brewing around estate jewelry right now, which is why we’ve dedicated the final Rapaport Magazine issue of 2024 to this exciting segment of the industry.
As you will read in our dedicated coverage, consumers are actively seeking out sustainable, distinctive designs that offer elevated craftsmanship — three touchpoints the estate category can serve well. Meanwhile, dealers tell us that the popularity of yellow gold is rising about as fast as the price, and vintage and antique pieces can offer consumers better value for their money, which in turn can offer retailers a competitive edge in the current strained economy.
Worldwide, the estate category is worth $4.4 billion, as our in-depth report from Kristin Taylor Young will tell you. In the US, as we anticipate the Great Wealth Transfer — in which older generations will pass an estimated $84 trillion worth of assets on to their heirs in the next two decades — we expect to see not only an influx of disposable income among younger generations, but also a fresh wave of estate jewels reaching the market as heirlooms go up for sale.
This is a boon for dealers who can get the right stock, and we are seeing fresh players join the market — the recently opened Rocksbox boutique in San Francisco, which we review in the issue, being a case in point. Some of these players are operating through traditional estate-jewelry retail channels, while others are building followings and sales funnels through social media. We are also seeing innovative selling models pop up on high streets and in department stores.
No matter what your retail style or customer profile is, it seems there are possibilities for estate jewels, and we hope this issue of Rapaport Magazine will help you gain a deeper understanding of the growing market for them. The insightful stories in this edition include a who’s who of leading appraisers in the US, tips on how to build your own estate offering, a glimpse of why prices for pre-owned watches are falling, a history of the Art Deco era — which will celebrate 100 years in 2025 — and a look at what museums are doing with what writer Anthony DeMarco describes as “the ultimate estate jewels”: the crown jewels of sovereign nations.
Elsewhere in the December issue, we get a tour of the 20,000-square-foot CD Peacock Mansion in Chicago as company vice chairman Steven Holtzman tells us why the longtime jeweler decided to “go big.”
We also explore new modes of retailing. Joshua Hendren reports on the possibilities of live streaming — a sales model he describes as combining “the familiarity of in-store shopping with the convenience of e-commerce.” He talks to the CEO of watch specialist The 1916 Company, one of several jewelers to launch its own interactive channel. Kate Matthams highlights designers who are going straight to auction houses to sell their brand-new collections. And this month’s Under 30s rising star, Grace Isley of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), tells us how she’s forging partnerships with retailers across the country to help them better communicate the value of mined gems.
Our colored-gemstone focus in this magazine is the inimitable Paraiba tourmaline. Sonia Esther Soltani chats with dealers, brands and auction houses to give us an overview of the market for this in-demand stone, and takes us on a journey with designer Emmanuel Tarpin to visit tourmaline mines in Brazil. You can also catch a standout example of Paraiba among the winners of this year’s AGTA Spectrum Awards.
In our Style section, we highlight the trends of baguette-cut diamonds and crafting luxury jewelry out of carved wood. We also tackle the difficult issue of knockoff designs and speak to jewelry brands that are fighting back against this so-called sincerest form of flattery. Spoiler alert: They don’t find it all that flattering.
I do hope you enjoy the December 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine, and wish you all a successful holiday trading season. Happy reading.
