Eve Goldberg of William Goldberg, the eponymously-named company of her father, William Goldberg, reflects on Goldberg’s emphasis on respecting a diamond’s intrinsic beauty, bold innovation, and the power of storytelling in crafting timeless jewellery. Her insights provide lessons for jewellers on mastering craftsmanship, preserving exclusivity, and drawing inspiration from India’s rich jewellery traditions.
For 75 years, William Goldberg has stood as a global leader in the diamond industry, synonymous with excellence, artistry, and innovation. At the heart of the brand’s story lies the Ashoka® diamond cut, a modern-day tribute to Emperor Ashoka — patented by William Goldberg in 1999. In an exclusive interview with Diamond World, Eve Goldberg, principal at the company, and the daughter of its visionary founder, talks about how India has inspired the company, the legacy of her father’s craftsmanship, and how the brand continues to shape the future of diamonds. Excerpts:
Diamond World (DW): How did William Goldberg’s vision transform New York’s Diamond District?
Eve Goldberg (EG): In 1973, my father was elected a three-term President of the Diamond Dealers Club, and his mission was to broaden the mindset of the insular community. He encouraged members to collaborate, and share their knowledge. I am very proud to say that he was responsible for opening membership to women for the first time in a male-dominated industry.
When he moved the headquarters across 5th Avenue, at the corner of 48th Street, the industry definitely noticed, and others followed suit. The move was so significant that the municipality of New York City named the block “William Goldberg Way”. They reserve special street names for individuals who have contributed significantly to the business community.
DW: How do Goldberg’s values continue to shape the company today?
EG: My father’s first entry into the diamond trade was as a cutter, though he quickly realized this was not his true passion or skill. That said, in addition to being a leader, he had the soul of an artist, and was fascinated by the art of cutting.
He built a team of skilled master cutters, and coined the term “The Magic is in the Make” at a time when the industry was obsessed with carats and clarity. While these elements have always been important, he believed the most crucial principle of cutting was to respect and enhance the intrinsic beauty of the diamond.
He was known for his legendary collection of fancy diamonds and admired for bold, sometimes unexpected, decisions when cutting rough stones. And, of course, his biggest innovation came with the re-creation of the Ashoka®, which required a decade to perfect to his standards.
DW: What inspired the creation of the book, The William Goldberg Way?
EG: My family has been wanting to honour my father with the tribute he deserves. The stories the book tells are timeless, and the two milestone anniversaries — 75 years of family business, and 25 years since the creation of the Ashoka® — seemed like the perfect time to celebrate.
There is a historical element to the book, as it narrates the progression of his career, but we were absolutely determined to capture my father’s voice. One of the compliments I frequently receive from people who have read it is that it reads like a novel, which is exactly what we hoped for. We worked with the super talented writers Jill Newman and Jackie Caradonio, and I think we achieved our goal.
DW: What makes the Ashoka® diamond so special, and how do you ensure its exclusivity?
EG: The Ashoka® diamond has a fascinating history. The original Ashoka diamond dates back to the second century BCE. It reappeared in the decade between 1970 and 1980 after centuries of mystery. One of its owners was the famed actress Maria Felix, often called the Elizabeth Taylor of Mexico. It went to auction in the late 1980s, and was purchased by an anonymous bidder — it has never been seen again.
My brother Saul and I were avid bidders at the auction, but it ultimately went to someone else. We were so captivated by the diamond that my father, along with his master cutters, spent a decade perfecting the Ashoka® cut, which was introduced in 1999.
The Ashoka® diamond is set apart by its 62 facets that capture and disperse light with extraordinary brilliance. Its elongated shape adheres to the golden ratio, giving it the illusion of being 30% larger than an emerald-cut diamond of equal weight. Because of its unique proportions, fewer than one percent of the world’s rough diamonds meet the exacting standards required to create an Ashoka®.
To maintain its exclusivity, we hold significant proprietary safeguards. William Goldberg was granted a federal 25-year patent in 1999, and we still hold the trademark and exclusive rights to distribute the Ashoka®. Additionally, we partner with the best of the best, such as Kwiat in the US, and Boodles in the UK, ensuring reputational standards and controlled availability.
DW: What message do you hope The William Goldberg Way leaves for the next generation of jewellers?
EG: With my father’s legacy, which the current generation carries on, we hope to inspire new generations of jewellers all over the world to consider beauty a priceless value. In fact, when my father worked with some of the most prominent jewellery houses, he always urged buyers to look at the stone before considering its weight or rating. He would often start the conversation by asking, “Did you fall in love?”
DW: What advice would William Goldberg give to Indian jewellers today?
EG: First, I would suggest that we have much to learn from Indian jewellery traditions — perhaps more so than the reverse!
My father was fascinated by the incredible diamonds from the Golconda mines, and was inspired by Indian culture. The original Ashoka diamond came from Golconda, and was named after Emperor Ashoka, a warrior-turned-advocate for peace and enlightenment. This history profoundly touched my father. He believed in the diamond’s legendary power to “remove sorrow”, which became a cornerstone of our philosophy.
The Ashoka® diamond’s roots in India highlight how much we value the country’s rich tradition of exquisite jewellery. My father loved old cuts, and was passionate about preserving and carrying them forward. That same appreciation inspires us today.
We work with a select group of private clients, including many remarkable Indian families. My father would likely tell young Indian jewellers the same thing he told others worldwide: always honour a diamond’s intrinsic beauty.
